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ELASTIC GORE FOR WEARING APPAREL. No. 332,492. Patented Dec. .15, 1885.

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amp STATES MORITZ GOHN, OF

NEW YORK, N. Y.

ELASTIC GORE FOR WEARING-APPAREL.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 332,492, dated December15, 1885.

Application filed August 24, 1885.

To aZZ whom it may concern.-

Be it known that I, MoRITZ 001m, of New York, in the county of New Yorkand State of New York, have invented a new Improvement in Elastic Goresfor fearing-Apparel; and I do hereby declare the following, when takenin connection with accompanying drawings and the letters of referencemarked thereon, to be a full, clear, and exact description of the same,and which said drawings constitute part of this specification, andrepresent, in-

Figure 1, a face view of an elastic gore embodying the invention; Fig.2, the endless india-rubber spring; Fig. 3, the gore as prepared for theintroduction of the springs; Fig. 4, a l transverse section of the gorewith the springs inserted.

This invention relates to an improvement in elastic gores or portionsfor wearing-apparel, specially adapted for corsets. These parts ofcorsets or other form of wearing-apparel have heretofore been made bythe introduction of wire helical springs introduced in transversepockets across the portion to be made elastic, the wire secured at eachend by various devices. These same sections have also been made fromshirred rubber goods-that is, fabric woven with india-rubber threadsheld in tension during the process of weaving, then contracting,producing what is commonly called shirred fabric. The portions of thecorset or garment are out from such material and stitched to the edgesof the adjacent parts, dependence being had upon the stitching to catchthe ends of the rubber threads to hold them in place; but,notwithstanding great care be used in the stitching, the rubber threadswill frequently break away, and the elasticity be lost. India rubbercords have been introduced in transverse pockets, in the same manner asthe introduction of wire springs; but in such case the stitching of theparts is relied upon as the means of securing the springs, and they areliable to the same difficulty as in woven shirred fabric; hence it isthat indiarubber as an elastic material for gores has been to a greatextent discarded and the wire substituted therefor, the wire beingconsiderably more expensive than india-rubber.

The object of my invention is the construction of elastic gores orsections with india-rub- Serial No. 175,189. (No model.)

ber springs which do not depend upon the stitching for their support;and it consists in endless loops or rings of india-rubber, introducedthrough transverse pockets, the doubled ends of the springs extendingbeyond the edge of the pockets,with a stay introduced through the loopends of the springs, so as to bear against the edge of the pockets andhold the springs, as more fully hereinafter described.

The springs which I employ are made from india-rubber and what arecommonly called india-rubber bands or rings, and each consists of anendless thread of rubber, and in the doubled condition inlength somewhatless than the width of the elastic portion to be produced. (One suchendless spring seen detached in Fig. 2.)

The gore, section, or portion of the corset to be made elastic is cutfrom woven material. (Here represented as a gore, A.) This is cut fromwoven material, in which transverse pockets a a, more or less in number,are formed. The section, however, may be made from two thicknesses ofmaterial stitched together to form pockets. Through these pockets theendless bands I) are introduced, as seen in Fig. 4, the length of thebands being such as to permit the doubled ends to project beyond theends of the pockets, then through the loop-like ends of the severalsprings, and at each side astay, d, is introduced,which, by theelasticity of the rub ber, is drawn hard against the edge of the portionand so as to contract itinto a shirred condition. Thus formed, the goreor portion is ready for introduction to the corset or garment. The staymay be of any suitable inaterial-as bone, horn, or a fibrous material,like cord-it only being necessary that it shall be sufficient towithstand the strain of the in- I dia-rubber springs. The gore orportion thus prepared is introduced into the garment, the adjacent edgesbeing stitched in the usual manner to secure the parts together; butbecause of the endless shape of the springs and the stays introducedthrough their loop ends no dependence whatever is had upon the stitchingas a means for securing the ends of the springs, and the liability togive way, which exists in the common construction of india rubbersprings, is avoided. This construction adds verylittle to the cost ofcommon india-rubber springs introduced in pockets, but avoids theserious objections which exist in the use of such springs, and thedurability of this improved spring is quite equal to that of the metalsprings.

WVhile designed with special reference to corsets, the invention may beapplied to other articles of Wearing-apparel Where an elastic portion orgore of a shirred nature is required.

I claim-- The herein-described elastic gore or section, consisting of afabric having a series of parallel pockets formed therein, combined withindiarubber springs, each in the form of an endless loop introducedthrough the said pockets, the doubled ends projecting at the respectiveends of the pockets, and stays introduced through the doubled orprojecting ends of the springs, to take a bearing against the ends ofthe pockets, substantially as described.

MORITZ COHN. Witnesses:

MICHAEL WALLSTEIN, HENRY J. SOHUMANN.

